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The Jumeirah Digital Team
Forever Fashion


“Fashion fades. Style is eternal,”said Yves Saint Laurent, referring to the capricious world of fashion.




And true to his word, much of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) seen several decades ago would merge with trends today.

January marks 50 years since the first YSL collection was presented to the world. Half a century later and the man who shifted perceptions of how woman should dress still lives on in the clothes he made and the label he created.

Born in 1936, Yves Saint Laurent grew up in Oran, Algeria. It was however Europe where he would spend much of his life. At 17, Yves entered a competition for young designers and his cocktail dress design afforded him first place. It was during the award ceremony in Paris where he first encountered Michel de Brunhoff, editor-in-chief of the French edition of Vogue magazine, who was so impressed with the young man’s sketches, he published them in the glossy fashion bible. Indeed it was Brunhoff who would later introduce Yves to Christian Dior – his first employer following graduation from Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, the regulatory body of the haute couture industry.

The talented Yves climbed the ranks of Dior fast, succeeding his predecessor at just 21 when Christian Dior died having suffered a massive heart attack in 1957. Although his first collection for the fashion house proved a resounding success, it couldn’t be matched in a subsequent second and third.

During his short tenure, Yves was conscripted into the French army to fight in the Algerian War of Independence. And having fallen out of favour with the higher powers of Dior, the young soldier was fired on his return.

Disheartened but not dissuaded, Yves launched his own label in 1962, backed by French industrialist Pierre Bergé, and YSL was born.

It proved an integral moment in the fashion industry. YSL would revolutionise the world of fashion – the way women dressed even.“…he was a libertarian, an anarchist and he threw bombs at the legs of society,” Bergé remarked of Yves’ unique individualism as a designer. “Chanel gave women freedom, Yves Saint Laurent gave them power,” he said.

Many of the YSL designs did indeed embody a sense of power – with conventionally masculine garments presented as wearable womenswear.

And of course there is no better example than Yves’ take on the tuxedo – the iconic Le Smoking. A symbol of power and masculinity, the tuxedo, formerly earmarked for men, had been untouched by any other womenswear designer. In 1966, Yves, however, turned this notion on its head when he produced an evening suit tailored for a woman. It was a defining garment for YSL and a signature piece that would return to the YSL catwalk time and time again, reinvented season to season.

YSL clothes interpreted the changing role of women in society. The suits, trousers, safari jackets, jumpsuits, sheer and tie-neck blouses and thigh-high boots emphasised this.

“Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga and Dior all did extraordinary things. But they worked within a particular style. Yves Saint Laurent is much more versatile, like a combination of all of them. He’s got the form of Chanel with the opulence of Dior and the wit of Schiaparelli,” commented designer Christian Lacroix on Yves’ exceptional ability.

YSL influence was further amplified through the prêt-a-porter line – Rive Gauche in 1966. Credited as the first couturier to launch a ready-to-wear line, YSL made designer fashion more accessible.

Two years earlier, YSL launched its first woman’s fragrance Y, followed by Rive Gauche perfume in 1971 and Opium six years later. It seemed that fashion houses, including YSL, were no longer confined to clothes but were rather multifaceted business empires.

Beauty products ensued in 1992 with Touche Éclat, which proved a make-up must. Today, the YSL beauty range encapsulates fragrances, skin care products and make-up such as eye shadows, nail polishes, foundations, lipsticks and mascaras.

Below: Looks from the women's Autumn/Winter 2011 and men's Autumn/Winter 2010 collections

                                


Yves Saint Laurent


“Chanel gave women freedom, Yves Saint Laurent gave them power”.




Prior to his death in 2008 after a long-fought illness, Yves began to loosen his ties to the fashion empire. Carrying on with couture until 2002, he retired from his ready-to-wear and accessories line several years earlier.

And with Italian fashion giant Gucci having acquired a stake in the company, this left its creative director Tom Ford the responsibility to take the helm (following a brief spell by Alber Elbaz).

But what started as a mutual respect between the two designers transgressed into something quite different. “He was supportive at the beginning,” Ford said during an interview with CNN. “He had been very complimentary of my work at Gucci.”

Yet despite his success under the YSL label, Ford faced growing criticism from the French designer. As the friction increased, their relationship deteriorated and in 2004, Ford left to start his own line. Italian Stefano Pilati was recruited as head of the YSL fashion house, where he has remained since.

With a style less overtly sexual than Ford and more reminiscent of Yves, the designer has maintained his status at the French fashion house.

Under Pilati, YSL accessories have been hugely popular, particularly the jewellery, and the ‘Tribute’ bags with a subtle motif and the same-named skyscraper heels. The fashion world’s response to his clothes, however, has been mixed. Some critics believe Yves is an impossible act to follow, therefore critics have been slow to come around to Pilati’s ideas. Others believe his designs are contemporary yet reflective of the YSL philosophy, and have transformed the brand’s flailing fortunes.

Indeed last March, he debuted his 2011 Autumn/Winter collection to positive reviews in the press. Looking through the extensive house archives he gained inspiration from the early 1960s through to the late1970s, which translated into a monochrome palette, high-waist trouser suits, palazzo-pants, short shifts and tweed coats. “Sensational”, “sharp” and “YSL DNA with a strict modernity,” were among the words usedto describe the designer’s efforts, which garnered admiration acrossthe board.

The Autumn/Winter collection the previous year was also well received with the designer zoning in on Yves’ famous Opium couture collection from 1977. This saw him taking inspiration from a classic print and employing it in several noteworthy pieces. High-waisted pleated skirts, cropped pants, and a belted cape-dress also made their way down the runaway, while the classic Le Smoking was reinvented into a jumpsuit.

Autumn/Winter 2010 menswear, meanwhile, focused on black, browns, and charcoal greys. The loose and belted jackets and chunky knits contrasted with the modish suits, double-breasted coats and colour palette unveiled the following year. This particular collection was said to revisit the North African homeland of his predecessor Yves. The next season’s Spring/Summer range changed direction again with a military focus, showcased in block sand, stark white, and slate blue.

However, when it came to the latest women’s Spring/Summer collection – there was one thing on everyone’s minds and that was the shoes. No sooner had they emerged on the catwalk, they were sought-after by the show’s front row. The collection’s printed a-line jackets and jewel-toned blouses and skirts simply couldn’t compete.

Clearly Pilati’s forte is in designing accessories and this has proved an incredibly lucrative arm of the YSL business. However, over the last year, rumours have been rife that Belgium designer Raf Simmons will replace Pilati – sooner or later.

Whether there is any truth in this, is dubious. But whoever ‘inherits’ YSL will find it difficult to step out of Yves shadow, as his successors would most probably agree. After all, Yves Saint Laurent’s influence was immeasurable, and designs often incomparable.




Forever Fashion

Date January - February 2012
Writer Vhairi Walker
Photographer Supplied
 
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